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Sunday’s Table
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WINE AND DRINK

A SPIRIT COMPANY GROWS IN BROOKLYN

 Happy Hour in America, or Apertivo in Italy, are both considered an afternoon ritual intended to celebrate a hard days work and gather with friends. In an American pub you might find pretzels or peanuts to wash down an IPA or an Old Fashioned. In Italy, olives, cheeses or small, fried meatballs help patrons enjoy some down time along side a glass of Rosato or Campari, a bitter liqueur from Milan that’s the highlight in a classic Negroni.  


Italy is known for some of the finest wines in the world. It also has a thriving, modern day micro-brew scene- making amaros for ancient aperitifs that range from citrusy to deeply bitter. Over the course of history, amaros have been used for many things including health tonics and digestive treatments. As time went on, the amaros were enjoyed on their own after a heavy meal to settle the stomach. As bar culture modernized and became more of an experience to pair with foods, these amaros were used to create unique cocktails on menus across the world.  


In the New York borough of Brooklyn, the company Faccia Brutto was started by Patrick Miller, a former chef, and his small team who are making some incredible amaros. The team has taken a page out of the culture of Italian drinking traditions and have created some incredible spirits that respect the traditional flavors but speak Brooklyn.  

SHOP FACCIA BRUTTO

California Italian Wines and Drinks

Welcome to "New World Wine and Drink," a recurring series that bridges the gap between ancient European traditions and bold American innovation. This series will showcase visionaries, such as those behind Broc Cellars Amore Rosso, who are adapting Italian grape varieties to unique U.S. micro-climates. Join us as we explore the future of culinary excellence, one region at a time.

Italian Grapes in California?

Italian grapes in California? Paired with a grilled burger! Italian wines are crafted from Italian grape varieties grown on Italian vines, right? What happens when you plant 25 Italian grape varieties (along with some Spanish ones too) in Northern California? That’s the question the winemakers at Fox Hill Vineyards likely considered when they produced their first Nero d’Avola in 2013. While this wine may not fit the strict definition of “Italian,” it certainly reflects an Italian approach in quality and creativity.  


Now, under the Broc Cellars label and led by Chris Brockaway, the winery is crafting a range of wines using Italian, Spanish, and domestic grape varieties. Although we haven’t yet met the winemaker, it’s evident that we share a passion for Italian style wines. Our first taste was their 2023 Broc Cellars Amore Rosso, which I would describe as an elevated classic table wine. This wine is fruit-forward, well balanced, and pairs beautifully with pizza, but we enjoyed it alongside a grilled burger topped with a thick slice of summer beefsteak tomato. It was a match made in heaven, as the flavors of the wine and burger melded together beautifully.  


What’s fascinating about this wine is the blend of Italian grape varieties with a subtle hint of Northern California terroir. The Amore Rosso features a blend of Barbera and Dolcetto grapes, with additional Montepulciano and Sangiovese grapes that add more structure. The growing conditions share many similarities with where these grapes thrive, thanks to the mountains, cooler evenings, and coastal climates. I appreciate how Broc Cellars embraces this style, allowing their wines to remain as true to their Italian origins as possible. When Italian grape varieties were first planted in California, many winemakers aimed for them to reflect the bold style of California wines like Cabernet or Zinfandel. However, the Amore Rosso truly earns its name, as it almost speaks to you in Italian. At $28 a bottle for a high-quality California wine, the value is hard to beat.  


Click below to check out Broc Cellars 2023 Amore Rosso.

Check out Broc Cellers

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